KLAS outlets — installation guide
KLAS · solid brass outlet plates
Installation guide · Outlets
Before you start
Mains wiring must be done by a licensed electrician, with the power off at the breaker, following the NEC / CEC and local codes. Metal plates must be grounded where the code requires it (NEC 404.9). Keep this guide for the next owner.
In the box
Your solid brass plate, the outlet(s) you chose fitted in white or black, two brass-finish screws per position. Sizes: 1-gang 72 × 120 mm, 2-gang 120 × 120, 3-gang 165 × 120, 4-gang 210 × 120 mm; all 120 mm (4.72 in) tall.
You will need
Flat and Phillips screwdrivers, a non-contact voltage tester, wire strippers, wire connectors, and a small spirit level.
Six steps
- Switch off and testTurn off the breaker for the circuit. Check the wires at the box with a voltage tester before touching anything.
- Remove the old plate and outletUnscrew the old plate, then the outlet. Note or photograph which wire goes where — especially on a GFCI (LINE vs LOAD) and when there are two cables in the box.
- Check the box and circuitEach position needs one standard gang of a US/Canada box, screw holes 83.5 mm (3.29 in) apart. GFCI and USB outlets need a standard-depth box. Match the outlet to the circuit: 15A on a 15A circuit; 20A outlets only on a 20A circuit.
- Wire the outletHot to the brass screw, neutral to the silver screw, ground to the green screw. Hook each wire clockwise under its screw and tighten firmly. On a GFCI, power in on LINE, onward outlets on LOAD. Fold the wires neatly into the box.
- Fit the outlet and platePush the outlet into the box, ground slot in the same direction for every position, and set it level. Hold the brass plate over it and fix with the two supplied screws through the plate and the outlet’s strap into the box. Tighten evenly until the plate sits flat — do not overtighten.
- Restore power and testSwitch the breaker back on. Test every socket with a plug-in tester. On a GFCI press TEST (power should cut), then RESET.
Looking after brass
Each plate is hand-brushed, so no two are identical, and the finish deepens with time. Wipe with a dry, soft cloth. No polish, abrasives or solvents — they strip the finish.
Wiring by outlet
Which wire goes where
| Device | Connections | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Outlet 15A, duplex | Brass screw = hot (black). Silver screw = neutral (white). Green screw = ground. Two sockets share the terminals. | Tamper-resistant shutters are normal: push the plug straight in. |
| Outlet 20A, duplex | Same connections. The T-shaped neutral slot marks it as 20A — it must be on a 20A circuit with 12 AWG wire. | A 15A outlet is allowed on a 20A circuit when there are two or more outlets on it. |
| GFCI outlet | Incoming power to the LINE terminals (hot and neutral). Outlets further along the circuit go on the LOAD terminals so they are protected too. Ground to the green screw. | Press TEST then RESET after installing, and monthly. Nothing on LOAD? Leave the LOAD tape in place. |
| USB outlet (USB-A + USB-C) | Wire as a standard outlet: hot, neutral, ground. The charger is built in; no extra wiring. | Needs a standard-depth box. |
| Dual USB-C outlet | Wire as a standard outlet: hot, neutral, ground. | Needs a standard-depth box. |
| Split or switched outlet | Only if your wiring is already set up for it: break off the brass tab between the hot screws and feed each half separately. Never break the neutral tab. | Ask your electrician if unsure. |
| Device colour | The outlet body behind the brass is white or black, as chosen in the designer. | Black is the default for matte black plates. |
GFCI outlet: LINE in, LOAD out
Wire colours follow North American practice: black = hot, white = neutral, green or bare = ground. Brass screw = hot, silver screw = neutral, green screw = ground. Always confirm with a tester. Specifications may change; ask us before installing if anything looks different from this guide.